Paddy Woodworth
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Scene set for ugly confrontation ahead of Catalonia independence vote

7/26/2017

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Picture
Barcelona Letter: Many Catalans are less than enthusiastic for a divorce from Madrid

Barcelona was the first city in Spain I ever visited, back in 1973.

The great Catalan capital was then resisting the dying clutches of the Franco dictatorship. I remember the menace of soldiers in coal-scuttle helmets, goose-stepping at the bottom of the Ramblas, rain pelting down, the streets barely lit.

But I also remember, much more vividly, the rich odour of history and culture that oozed from every worn stone of the adjacent medieval Gòtic Barri. I would, of course, have had to call it the Barrio Gótico in those days – had I been rash enough to ask a policeman for directions.

The Catalan language was no longer illegal, but its public use, especially by a foreigner, was still regarded with intense hostility by the regime.
​
Coming back four decades later, after a complete absence of nearly 20 years, it is good to find that the Gòtic Barri can still exercise its old magic.
 






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  • Home
  • Articles & Blog
  • Books
    • Our Once and Future Planet >
      • Reviews & Awards
      • Pre-publication reviews
      • Extracts
    • The Basque Country >
      • Reviews
      • Extracts
    • Dirty War, Clean Hands >
      • Reviews
      • Extracts
  • Lectures
    • Upcoming & Past Events
    • Themes & Topics
    • Testimonials
  • Tours
    • Recent Tours
    • Basque Itinerary
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    • Testimonials
    • Logistics and Partners
  • About
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